The shows from New York are always exciting to watch. This season was filled with some truly beautiful collections. Below are a few of my favourites from Fall 2020 NYFW, written and published for VITA Magazine.
The Fall 2020 collections just walked the runways at New York Fashion Week. This season was filled with lots of colour, creative presentations, uptown glamour and downtown cool vibes. We’ve rounded up five of our favourite shows of the season that we can’t wait to see in store. Photo above: Michael Kors
‘Cozy Glamour’ read the show notes at the Michael Kors runway show. Taking place at the American Stock Exchange, the show space was transformed into a deconstructed country house. This was a fitting scene for the musical performance by Canadian Orville Peck. In true Michael Kors style, the collection featured classic, wearable pieces that echoed the season’s inspiration: relaxed chic with an urban sense of polish. We loved all the blanket capes, luxurious knits, sleek riding boots and relaxed tailoring.
In an effort to be more sustainable, some of the clothes showcased were made out of recycled or reclaimed materials and yarn. Following the show, the wood from the set was donated to Materials for the Arts, NYC’s largest creative reuse center. Now that’s what you call smart fashion!
This season, COACH collaborated with the Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat to showcase a collection filled with 80’s nostalgia. There was an ease to this season style that was presented in an airy, downtown loft. Bright primary colours, statement outerwear, and nods to the heritage of the brand were featured throughout. Models wore cool sneakers and practical flats that we’re already coveting.
Creative Director Stuart Vevers punctuated the collection with prints of Basquiat’s iconic graphics and paintings, including a super fun rendition of Coach’s dinosaur ‘Rexy’. To honor this collaboration, the artist’s sisters and stepmother were in the front row, while Basquiat’s niece, Jessica Kelly walked the runway.
Rounding out this effortlessly cool presentation was the live musical performance by singer songwriter Debbie Harry, rocking out with punk rock band The Coathangers. The show was unique, memorable and reinforced the fresh youthful energy Vevers has created for the brand.
Ulla Johnson is one to watch. Known for her ultra-feminine, free spirited collections, her brand continues to garner fans and admirers worldwide. For Fall 2020, the designer created what she called ‘an assertive vision of femininity.’ Drawing inspiration from the French architect Charlotte Perriand’s concept of ‘L’art de Vivre’ the collection showcases a new form of empowerment. Embracing shapes that cocoon and drape, along with sharp tailoring, chic ruffles and bold silhouettes.
There were so many details to take in from this collection. Knitwear highlighted Johnson’s love of handcrafted techniques that showcased her artisan partners in Peru. Delicate hand crochet and fluffy alpaca yarns lent a softness to the pieces. The colour palette was inspired by Johnson’s recent trip to East Africa, and the beautiful hues of the landscape. Bright electric shades of purple, acid green, and turquoise were grounded in base shades of dark chocolate, rosey pinks and leafy greens.
Fall 2020 saw the launch of Ulla Johnson eyewear. Handcrafted in Italy, in fun, oversized proportions that were bold and unapologetically feminine, just like the brand.
Christian Siriano collaborated with the film ‘Birds of Prey’ this season, starring Margot Robbie as Harley Quinn. As part of this sponsorship, items from the movie set were shipped into Spring Studios to create the background for the Fall 2020 collection. The front row, which included SNL’s Leslie Jones who excitedly watched and cheered as models, including Canadian Coco Rocha strutted down the catwalk in Sirano’s gorgeous gowns.
“For Fall 2020 this season I let my imagination run wild. I was first inspired by the film Birds of Prey where I took ideas of Harley Quinn running through a dark abandoned carnival fun house. This led to a mythical, gothic and artistic experimental collection. I even found myself looking to the Dadaism art movement of the early 20th century for ideas of sculpture, form, futurism and expression. There is always a focus on event dressing and evening wear that is modern and elevated for our customer, but with playful and youthful silhouettes.” – Christian SirianoJason Wu
Flowers were everywhere for Jason Wu’s Fall 2020 presentations. Beautiful blooms adorned the set along with floral fabrics in a rich, jewel colour palette. There was a 1970’s reference throughout the sleek presentation, including touches of romantic ruffles, pretty lace and feminine silhouettes
To complement this sophisticated collection, Maybelline’s makeup artist, Diane Kendal focused on creating healthy, glowing skin that would be the perfect backdrop for a classic red lip. ‘We wanted everyone to look fresh and gorgeous. A lip is an easy way to elevate your look.’ – Diane Kendal.
Images courtesy of each brand